Lash and brow serum: what works, what takes patience

In short: a lash and brow serum is applied every day at the base, on clean, dry skin. It does not create new hairs: it supports the appearance of existing ones. Allow several weeks to a few months because of the growth cycle. Avoid products containing prostaglandins without medical advice.
Sparse lashes, over-plucked brows: the lash and brow serum has become a routine classic. Above all, it requires patience and good technique. Here is what the guides from Typology and pharmacies cover, plus what you need to know about safety.
How do lashes and brows grow?
They follow a three-phase cycle: growth (anagen), transition (catagen) and rest (telogen). Lashes live a few months before falling out and being replaced; brows follow a slightly longer cycle. This is why a visible change takes several weeks, or even a few months, of regular use.
Why are lashes and brows sparse?
Repeated plucking, waterproof makeup not properly removed, false lashes, rubbing, age, stress, deficiencies or medical reasons. Sudden or significant loss should be reported to a doctor.
What do the serums contain?
- Multi-peptides: used in lash and brow care.
- Biotin (vitamin B8): associated with the appearance of the hair fibre.
- Horsetail extract: a plant rich in silica.
- Panthenol, hydrolysed keratin, ANP2+: found in some formulas.
- Prostaglandin analogues (bimatoprost and derivatives): medicinal actives, sometimes found in non-compliant products, with possible side effects on the eyes and skin. Avoid them without medical advice.
Are there any risks?
A compliant cosmetic serum is generally well tolerated, but irritation, redness or swelling are possible. Apply away from the eye, rinse if it gets into the eye, and stop if you have a reaction. Ask a professional for advice before using any unlabelled product or one from a doubtful source.
How to apply it?
- Clean, dry lashes and brows, free of makeup.
- Apply at the base in a single stroke, using the applicator.
- Let it dry before going to bed or applying makeup.
- One application a day, morning and/or evening.
When to use it?
The evening is the most practical: you avoid makeup and give it time to absorb. Consistency comes first.
What results can you expect?
Reviews vary and depend on the starting point. Allow several weeks of daily application before judging the appearance. Stopping may bring back the original appearance.
Frequently mentioned brands
- Typology: lash and brow densifying serum with pea peptides.
- RevitaLash: very well-known lash care, widely available in Moroccan shops.
- Ecrinal, Heliabrine: strengthening gels with ANP2+ sold in pharmacies.
- Embryolisse: lash and brow booster care.
- Cosmogenesis Labs: multi-peptide lash and brow serum, 1% biotin and horsetail, 3 ml, with a precise applicator.
Mistakes to avoid
- Stopping after one week.
- Applying on the rim of the eyelids or in the eye.
- Continuing to pull out or over-pluck.
- Sleeping in waterproof makeup.
Caring for lashes and brows
- Remove your makeup every evening with a gentle product.
- Do not pull on the eyelid, do not rub.
- Use eyelash curlers and false lashes less often.
- Brows: stop plucking for a few weeks, brush them every day, have the line shaped by a professional.
For a duo of treatments, see the lash & brow boost routine.
Growing eyelashes in one week: myth or reality?
It is a myth. An eyelash grows slowly and follows a cycle of several weeks. No cosmetic product can transform lashes in seven days. A difference in appearance within a few days comes mainly from mascara, an eyelash curler or the way the photo is taken. Be wary of promises of immediate results, often linked to unlabelled products.
Castor oil for eyelashes: is it worth it?
Castor oil is a very popular remedy in Morocco. It coats the fibre and can give a shinier, more supple look. However, no solid study shows that it makes lashes grow. It can also run into the eye, blur vision and irritate the edge of the eyelids. If you use it, a very small amount on the tips is enough, never inside the eye.
After eyelash extensions
The glue and weight of extensions weaken your own lashes, which sometimes fall out along with the extension. After removal, take a break of several weeks, remove make-up without rubbing and apply a serum every evening at the root. The growth cycle will do its work; a serum supports the look of the lashes during this period.
Over-plucked eyebrows: can they grow back?
In most cases, yes, if the follicle has not been damaged by years of plucking. Put the tweezers away for three to four months, brush the brows every day and apply the serum in the direction of growth. A clinical review published in 2023 (American Journal of Clinical Dermatology) notes that loss of eyebrows or eyelashes can also have a medical cause: thyroid, alopecia, deficiencies, eczema. If nothing grows back, or if the loss is sudden, see a doctor.
Sensitive eyes and contact lenses
- Remove your lenses before applying the serum, and wait until it is dry before putting them back in.
- Apply along the upper lash line, without touching the inside of the eye.
- In case of redness, swelling or itching, stop and rinse with clean water.
- After surgery or in case of eye disease, ask your ophthalmologist before using any product.
A complete ritual for lashes and skin
The Sérum Cils & Sourcils Multi-Peptides is applied in the evening at the root, after removing make-up. The Routine Cils & Sourcils Boost pairs it with the Sérum Peptides & Phyto-Collagène for the face. All the products for this area are on the eye, lash and brow care page.
Mascara, make-up removal and fragile lashes
Waterproof mascara is the hardest to remove. Rubbing with a dry cotton pad pulls out lashes at every removal. Instead, place a cotton pad soaked in a gentle make-up remover or an oil on the closed eyelid, wait a few seconds, then slide it downwards without pressing. Keep waterproof mascara for special occasions and replace your tube every three months to limit irritation.
Choosing a lash serum in Morocco
- Complete labelling in French, with the list of ingredients.
- An identified company responsible for placing it on the market, and an expiry date.
- No bimatoprost or prostaglandin analogue in a product sold as a cosmetic.
- A fine applicator, to place the product at the root without excess.
Sources and further reading
- Typology: everything you need to know about lash and brow serums
- Typology: how to use a lash and brow serum
- Clinical review 2023: eyebrow and eyelash loss (PubMed)
Informational content that does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional. If in doubt, for reactive skin, during pregnancy or for a dark spot that changes, consult a dermatologist.
Frequently asked questions
How long before seeing results?
Several weeks of daily application, sometimes a few months. Results vary from person to person.
Where should the serum be applied?
At the base of the lashes and in the direction of brow growth, on clean skin.
Is a lash and brow serum dangerous?
A compliant cosmetic product is generally well tolerated. Avoid unlabelled products or products containing prostaglandins without medical advice.
Can it be used with makeup?
Yes, once it has fully dried. Remove makeup before the evening application.
Is it compatible with false lashes?
It is best to avoid glue on the treated area. Ask your specialist for advice.
Can eyelashes grow in one week?
No. The growth cycle lasts several weeks. Allow at least one to two months of daily use before judging a serum.
Does castor oil make eyelashes grow?
No solid study shows it. It coats the lashes but can irritate the eye: use a very small amount, on the tips.
Do eyebrows grow back after over-plucking?
Often yes, if plucking is stopped for three to four months. Sudden loss or no regrowth should be seen by a doctor.


