Oily skin routine: morning and evening to control shine

In short: a good oily skin routine comes down to 5 steps: a gentle cleanser, a niacinamide serum, a light cream, a fluid SPF in the morning, and gentle exfoliation (AHA/BHA) two to three evenings a week. Never skip hydration.
A face that shines by mid-morning, visible pores, small blemishes: oily skin needs a clear routine, not an aggressive one. This guide brings together the steps suggested by Femina Skin, Nubiance, Horace and Laboratoire Lia, and adapts them to the Moroccan climate.
How do you recognize oily skin?
- Shine on the forehead, nose and chin, sometimes over the whole face.
- Visible pores and blackheads.
- Make-up that slides off by midday.
- A tendency to blemishes.
Note: oily skin can also be dehydrated. See dry or dehydrated skin.
Why does skin become oily?
Genetics, hormones (adolescence, cycle, stress), heat and humidity, an overly stripping routine. In Morocco, summer and coastal cities (Casablanca, Tangier, Agadir) increase shine.
Mistakes that make shine worse
- Touching, picking or squeezing spots.
- Skipping cream for fear of it being “greasy”: the skin compensates.
- Not wearing sunscreen.
- Too much make-up, never removed in the evening.
- Piling on scrubs and stripping masks.
The morning routine
- Gentle cleanser, without rubbing.
- Niacinamide serum: niacinamide serum 5%.
- Light cream, non-greasy.
- Fluid or “dry touch” SPF 50.
The evening routine
- Make-up removal / cleansing in two steps if wearing SPF or make-up.
- Gentle exfoliation two to three evenings a week: AHA + BHA toner.
- Hydrating serum on the other evenings: hyaluronic acid serum.
- Light night cream.
Recommended actives
- Niacinamide: mattifies and refines the look of pores (niacinamide guide).
- BHA (salicylic acid): unclogs pores (AHA and BHA guide).
- Zinc PCA: helps mattify.
- Retinol: renews the look of the skin, in the evening, with caution (retinol guide).
- Clay: an occasional mask, never more than once a week.
Oily skin, hammam and scrubbing
The hammam and kessa glove scrubbing can feel satisfying but increase reactivity if acids are added on top. Avoid chemical exfoliants on the evening of a hammam and leave two days between the two.
Adapting the routine to your age
In adolescence, favour gentle cleansing and BHA. Between 25 and 35, add niacinamide and daily SPF. After 35, oily skin ages more slowly but can become dehydrated: introduce hyaluronic acid and, if needed, retinol.
Pharmacy brands often mentioned for oily skin
La Roche-Posay (Effaclar range), Bioderma (Sébium), Avène (Cleanance), Vichy (Normaderm), CeraVe (foaming cleanser): pharmacy ranges known for oily skin, with cleansers and targeted treatments. Cosmogenesis Labs offers an actives-led approach: niacinamide 5%, AHA + BHA, hyaluronic acid and a complete routine, vegan.
The shortcut: a complete routine
The refined pores routine brings together the AHA + BHA exfoliating serum, the toner and the niacinamide serum.
When should you see a doctor?
Inflammatory acne, cysts, scars or persistent blemishes despite a gentle routine: see a dermatologist.
Dehydrated oily skin: the common trap
Skin that shines but feels tight after a shower, with small flakes on the sides of the nose, is often dehydrated oily skin. It lacks water, not sebum. Harsh cleansers, alcohol and repeated scrubs make it worse. The answer: a gentle cleanser, a hyaluronic acid serum on slightly damp skin, then a light cream. See our article dry or dehydrated skin: how to tell the difference.
Oily and acne-prone skin: what changes
When shine comes with breakouts, the routine stays the same but gentler: a BHA (salicylic acid) in the evening, niacinamide in the morning, and no squeezing of blemishes. The American Academy of Dermatology advises washing the face twice a day and after sweating, with a gentle cleanser, without scrubbing. Inflammatory or nodular acne, or acne that leaves scars, is a matter for a dermatologist.
Choosing the right cleanser
The cleanser often decides whether a routine succeeds. For oily skin, choose a gentle, soap-free gel with a pH close to that of the skin. Cleansers that leave the skin “squeaky clean” remove too many lipids: the skin feels tight, then shines even more a few hours later. In the evening, if you wear SPF or make-up, a first cleanse with an oil or cleansing balm, followed by the gel, cleans better without rubbing. A salicylic acid cleanser can be useful, but not on top of a BHA exfoliant on the same evening.
Which serum for oily skin?
- Shine and visible pores: the Sérum Niacinamide Pores Resserrés, every morning.
- Blackheads and uneven texture: the Sérum Exfoliant Visage AHA + BHA, two to three evenings a week.
- Tightness: a hyaluronic acid serum, which hydrates without greasiness.
To compare textures and actives, see our full range of face serums.
Oily skin in summer in Morocco
- Lighten your cream: a gel-cream is often enough from June to September.
- Choose a fluid SPF 50 with a dry finish, and reapply it when exposed.
- Keep blotting papers rather than washing your face several times a day.
- Rinse your face after sport or the beach, then rehydrate.
- Avoid thick oils and very rich creams on the T-zone.
Make-up on oily skin
- Choose products labelled “non-comedogenic” and fluid foundations rather than creamy ones.
- Apply make-up on hydrated, protected skin: a fluid SPF often works as a base.
- Powder only the T-zone, in a thin layer.
- Wash brushes and sponges every week.
- Remove make-up every evening, even late: a gentle double cleanse is enough.
Oily skin, diet and sleep
The links between diet and sebum are debated. Some studies associate diets high in fast sugars and, in some people, dairy products with more blemishes, with no rule that applies to everyone. Regular sleep, stress management and quitting smoking also matter. No food replaces a gentle, regular routine.
How long before you see a difference?
Shine often decreases within two to four weeks with niacinamide and suitable hydration. The look of pores and blackheads takes six to eight weeks, the time it takes gentle exfoliation to do its work. Take a photo at the start, in daylight, to compare.
Sources and further reading
- Femina Skin: oily and acne-prone skin routine in Morocco
- Horace: oily skin routine
- Nubiance: oily skin routine
- American Academy of Dermatology: oily skin, tips from dermatologists
- American Academy of Dermatology: how to wash your face
- Review 2012: oily skin, an overview (PubMed)
Informational content that does not replace the advice of a healthcare professional. If in doubt, for reactive skin, during pregnancy or for a dark spot that changes, consult a dermatologist.
Frequently asked questions
Should oily skin be moisturized?
Yes. A light cream limits sebum overproduction and protects the skin barrier.
Which active should you choose for visible pores?
Niacinamide, combined with gentle AHA/BHA exfoliation.
How long before you see an effect?
Four to eight weeks of consistency.
Is SPF essential for oily skin?
Yes, every morning, in a fluid texture.
Can you use a scrub every day?
No. Gentle exfoliation two to three evenings at most, and nothing right after a hammam.
Can oily skin be dehydrated?
Yes. It shines but feels tight, especially after cleansing. It needs water (hyaluronic acid) and a light cream, not a stronger cleanser.
Which serum to choose for oily skin?
A niacinamide serum in the morning for shine and pores, and an AHA + BHA exfoliant two to three evenings a week for blackheads.
How many times a day should oily skin be washed?
Twice a day, morning and evening, and after heavy sweating. More often, the skin dries out and can shine even more.


